contact us

Use the form on the right to contact us.

 


Granite Falls, WA 98252
USA

(425)320-8246

MRM-accessories for both ladies and gents. We offer everything from classic vintage to re invented up-cycled designs. Our goal is to make great design and fashion elements affordable.

Blog

A look at the history of men's fashion and style. Boardwalk Empire, Mad Men, Gatsby style accessory icons. How to's and color print match up advice.

 

Canteen history, form & function

Tracy Xavier

I stumbled across these images and information and found it so interesting, I had to share.

An essential piece of equipment for any soldier, there were many types and designs of canteens used by both armies. A classic design of the Federal forces after 1861 was the metal “bullseye” type (Model 1858) where rings were pressed into both sides of the canteen. Canteens made of wood or leather were also used, and they could be personalized by carving into the wood or painting the cloth cover with their owner’s name and company number (Field and Smith 2005).

Companies that produced large quantities of canteens were located primarily in the North, so Confederate soldiers had to rely on wooden canteens, crude blacksmith products, or whatever could be found on the battlefield. Despite having greater access to canteens, the North still had difficulty providing the necessary quantity, and found they had an increase in problems, such as leaking, due to the number of different manufacturers used (Jones 2007).

The canteen would have been issued with a dyed wool or cotton cover, some with a leather sling. The cover, in particular wool, would not only provide padding to prevent a leak if dropped and to muffle sound, but also would help cool the canteen through evaporation. The covers were produced through a mixture of machine and hand sewing, each modified by the soldier to fit. Often the canteen covers would be removed and used for patching uniforms.

UnionConfederateCanteens2.jpg

Historical Canteens – Canteen Figural Bottles

Posted on 19 January 2013 by Ferdinand Meyer V

Figural Whiskey Canteen, “H.A. GRAEF’S SON / N.Y. / CANTEEN”, (Denzin GRA-21), New York, ca. 1865 – 1880, deep yellowish olive amber figural canteen, 6 5/8”h, “1200” embossed on smooth base, tooled mouth, applied double handles, period cloth carrying cord. Perfect condition, and in a somewhat different shade of color than normally seen.

A golden canteen made during the Chinese Ming Dynasty, dated 15th century. – Gold was long held to be a symbol of wealth and prestige in China, and during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the imperial court issued guidelines to partially restrict its use. In theory, only society’s most privileged were allowed to own large amounts of gold vessels and tableware. This canteen, decorated with a five-clawed dragon—a symbol of the emperor—was probably made for members of the ruling house. Based on style, this canteen dates to the fifteenth century. Its technique is repousse (a method of decorating a surface by hammering the reverse of the object). One of the round panels of the canteen’s belly was left open so that most of the vessel could be decorated from the inside. To close the canteen, a separately decorated sheet of gold was soldered in place. – Freer and Sackler Galleries, Washington D.C.

Gar Louisville Canteen – A ca 1895 canteen, tin with original polychrome painted stenciled decoration/inscription We Drank From The Same Canteen arched above a U.S. shield breasted spread winged eagle with E Pluribus Unum ribbon banner in beak, arrows & laurel branches in talons and straight-line inscription Louisville / 1861-1895 at bottom, with two small rings at sides for hanging, 5″ 0 diameter.

18th Century Canteen “IW” carved on both sides. Carried by Isaac Whitehead during the Revolutionary War. Wood, leather. D 19.7, W 10.8, L (strap) 143.5 cm

Leather covered glass canteen. Standard issue for the Danish armed forces, 1856 to about 1930. This is the 1873 version, made by Holmegaard Glasværk

Antique 1912-1914 Kingdom Bulgaria handmade wooden flask. The obverse an image the young prince Boris (His Majesty King Boris III), on the reverse side is the Coat of arms of the Principality of Bulgaria and an inscription dedication- “Of the reserve captain Lazarov from St. P. Kiossev” 1912-1913. The wooden flask bottle has original stopper with hanged leather strap, long leather strap and and very rich decoration. Handmade, hand engraved (pokerwork) and hand painted and coloured.

Canteen, 1863 – This round wooden barrel canteen is made of cedar and is held together by two tin straps. On one side is an inscription that reads “W. C. FLETCHER 4TH KY.” A house is carved on the other side of the canteen. Wood was used for the canteen because metal supplies were low in the South by 1862. William C. Fletcher joined the Confederate Army in 1861. He was about 18 years old. He died on May 7, 1865, most likely while fighting at the battle of Dallas, in Georgia.

“33rd National 1899 Encampment / Phila. Pa.” Label Under Glass Flask, America, 1899. Colorless, canteen form, threaded ground mouth with original metal closure. Colorful graphics, “Grand Army Of The Republic / 1861 * Veteran * 1866” (within star), wreath and two American flags below an eagle perched above two cannon barrels and a third flag), “Fred C. Wagner / S.W. Cor.Broad and Sus- / quehanna Av., Phila.” (in lower left). “U.S.” debossed on reverse, perfect and rare!.

Faience parlante, (French: “talking faience”), in French pottery, popular utilitarian 18th-century earthenware, principally plates, jugs, and bowls, that had inscriptions as part of its decoration. The city of Nevers was the outstanding centre for the production of faience parlante. The range of inscriptions included owners’ names, coats of arms, bacchic or facetious references, Masonic and trade emblems, quotations from songs and proverbs, urban views, allegorical designs, and commemorative themes.

Queen of the Desert

Tracy Xavier

A 2015 American epic biographical drama film written and directed by Werner Herzog and is based on the life of British traveller, writer, archaeologist, explorer, cartographer and political officer Gertrude Bell.The film follows Bell's life chronologically, from her early twenties till her death.

Love the fabric and shape of her suit with all of those buttons. Timeless white blouse with a beautiful brooch detail, not to mention the suede gloves.

Love the fabric and shape of her suit with all of those buttons. Timeless white blouse with a beautiful brooch detail, not to mention the suede gloves.

Gathered waist linen shirt withe a layered strap wide leather belt. Long loose braided ponytail.

Gathered waist linen shirt withe a layered strap wide leather belt. Long loose braided ponytail.

Long wrap sweater with layered metal linked belts. Scroll botanical embroidered sleeve cuff detail.

Long wrap sweater with layered metal linked belts. Scroll botanical embroidered sleeve cuff detail.

Cashmere pashmina scarf wrap over a lacy high neck blouse. Tone on tone charcoal suit and waistcoat.

Cashmere pashmina scarf wrap over a lacy high neck blouse. Tone on tone charcoal suit and waistcoat.

Egg shell blue pashmina wrap with an extremely cool belt. Kind of digging his sweater vest & tie.     Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell ,  CBE  (14 July 1868 – 12 July 1926) was an English writer, traveller, political officer, administrator, and archaeologist who explored, mapped, and became highly influential to British imperial policy-making due to her knowledge and contacts, built up through extensive travels in  Greater Syria ,  Mesopotamia ,  Asia Minor , and  Arabia . Along with  T. E. Lawrence , Bell helped support the  Hashemite  dynasties in what is today  Jordan  as well as in  Iraq .  She played a major role in establishing and helping administer the modern state of  Iraq , utilizing her unique perspective from her travels and relations with tribal leaders throughout the Middle East. During her lifetime she was highly esteemed and trusted by British officials and exerted an immense amount of power. She has been described as "one of the few representatives of His Majesty's Government remembered by the Arabs with anything resembling affection".

Egg shell blue pashmina wrap with an extremely cool belt. Kind of digging his sweater vest & tie.

Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell, CBE (14 July 1868 – 12 July 1926) was an English writer, traveller, political officer, administrator, and archaeologist who explored, mapped, and became highly influential to British imperial policy-making due to her knowledge and contacts, built up through extensive travels in Greater Syria, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, and Arabia. Along with T. E. Lawrence, Bell helped support the Hashemite dynasties in what is today Jordan as well as in Iraq.

She played a major role in establishing and helping administer the modern state of Iraq, utilizing her unique perspective from her travels and relations with tribal leaders throughout the Middle East. During her lifetime she was highly esteemed and trusted by British officials and exerted an immense amount of power. She has been described as "one of the few representatives of His Majesty's Government remembered by the Arabs with anything resembling affection".

Items show are from our Etsy stores: Woman’s Renaissance & Modern Renaissance Man

The Birth Of The Suit & Fashion History

Tracy Xavier

There is a fascinating new show on Acorn TV “A Stitch In Time” BBC. A historical look at fashion & fabric

There is a fascinating new show on Acorn TV “A Stitch In Time” BBC. A historical look at fashion & fabric

The 2018 BBC series is presented by fashion historian Amber Butchart who examines figures from the past through the clothes they chose to wear in their portraits or effigies, including Marie Antoinette and King Charles II. Butchart looks for clues within the portraits, outlining the significance of the sitter and what the costume reveals about that person and the times in which they lived. Working alongside Amber is historical costumier Ninya Mikhaila who, together with her team, recreates the garments for Amber using the tailoring techniques of the given period.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b09l2qzs/episodes/guide

A look at the Restoration king, Charles II, and how he used fashion as propaganda with an outfit that foreshadowed the three piece suit.

Green was an uncommon color for textiles, denoting high finance and banking – it was practice for a green cloth to be placed down when making a trade

Green was an uncommon color for textiles, denoting high finance and banking – it was practice for a green cloth to be placed down when making a trade

In each episode Amber looked at what these items of clothing tell us about the people who wore them and the historical time periods they came from. Now showing on BBC 4, the new series A Stitch in Time presented by fashion historian Amber Butchart takes us on an eye-opening journey through clothing worn by historical figures in politically significant paintings. Historical tailor Ninya Mikhaila and her team recreate the outfits using the methods that would have been employed at each point in history, transporting us to a bygone world of fashion.

We are also invited to explore some of the garments stored in the V&A’s collection of over 75,000 objects, giving us insight into how the fabrics appear in the paintings, and how they would have felt to the wearer. Butchart herself introduces each episode by positing that 'clothes are the ultimate form of visual communication – by looking at the way people dress we can learn not only about them as individuals, but about the society they lived in… in the words of Louis XIV, I believe that fashion is the mirror of history.'

“  the King hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest, I know not well how”

the King hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest, I know not well how”

The most frequently discussed innovation in dress that Charles II has been associated with was his decision to reject French fashion and to create a specifically English style – the vest – a fashion that Charles II stated he would ‘never alter. Pepys described how the king adopted this style in 1666 when he noted in his diary on 17 October that ‘The Court is all full of vests ; only, my Lord St. Albans not pinked, but plain black – and they say the King says the pinking upon white makes them look too much like magpyes, and therefore hath bespoke one of plain velvet’. Pinking comprised small cuts or holes, often in geometric patterns, cut in the top fabric of outer garments. More detail was supplied by the writer and diarist John Evelyn (1620–1706) who noted on 18 October : https://journals.openedition.org/apparences/1320

In the early 19th century, British  dandy   Beau Brummell  redefined, adapted, and popularized the style of the British court, leading  European  men to wearing well-cut, tailored clothes, adorned with carefully knotted neckties. The simplicity of the new clothes and their somber colors contrasted strongly with the extravagant,  foppish  styles just before. Brummell's influence introduced the modern era of men's clothing which now includes the modern suit and necktie. Moreover, he introduced a whole new era of grooming and style, including regular (daily) bathing as part of a man's toilette. However, paintings of French men from 1794 onwards reveal that Brummel might only have adopted and popularized post-revolutionary French suits, which included tail coat, double-breasted waistcoat and full-length trousers with either  Hessian boots  or regular-size shoes. There is no 18th-century painting of Brummel to establish his innovation. The modern suit design seems to be inspired by the utilitarian dressing of hunters and military officers. Paintings of the decade 1760 reveal how the modern coat design with lapels emerged. It can be seen in the hunting scene with Count Carl Emil Ulrich von Donop as subject by an unknown artist and Frederick William Ernest, Count von Schaumburg-Lippe in Hanoverian Field Marshall uniform painted by Joshua Reynolds.    https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/beau-brummell-the-original/

In the early 19th century, British dandy Beau Brummell redefined, adapted, and popularized the style of the British court, leading European men to wearing well-cut, tailored clothes, adorned with carefully knotted neckties. The simplicity of the new clothes and their somber colors contrasted strongly with the extravagant, foppish styles just before. Brummell's influence introduced the modern era of men's clothing which now includes the modern suit and necktie. Moreover, he introduced a whole new era of grooming and style, including regular (daily) bathing as part of a man's toilette. However, paintings of French men from 1794 onwards reveal that Brummel might only have adopted and popularized post-revolutionary French suits, which included tail coat, double-breasted waistcoat and full-length trousers with either Hessian boots or regular-size shoes. There is no 18th-century painting of Brummel to establish his innovation. The modern suit design seems to be inspired by the utilitarian dressing of hunters and military officers. Paintings of the decade 1760 reveal how the modern coat design with lapels emerged. It can be seen in the hunting scene with Count Carl Emil Ulrich von Donop as subject by an unknown artist and Frederick William Ernest, Count von Schaumburg-Lippe in Hanoverian Field Marshall uniform painted by Joshua Reynolds.

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/beau-brummell-the-original/


https://www.permanentstyle.com/2009/04/how-charles-ii-invented-the-three-piece-suit.html

October 7 1666 Charles issued a declaration that his court would no longer wear ‘French fashions’. Instead, it would adopt what was known at the time as the Persian vest. A long waistcoat to be worn with a knee-length coat and similar-length shirt, it was made of English wool, not French silk. The emphasis was on cloth and cut, not ruffles and accessories.

Indeed, you could argue that the English suiting tradition began here – concentrating on silhouette and quality of wool rather than color or decoration – systematised by the plain propriety of Beau Brummel a century later.

The outfit was finished off with a sash, stockings and buckled shoes. Over time the waistcoat became shorter and shorter, until by around 1790 it reached the length we recognise today. It had been sleeveless since the 1750s.

The first version was modelled by the King himself outside Westminster Hall and, as described by diarist Samuel Pepys, was “of black cloth and pinked with white silk under it”.

Over time it became an excuse for extravagance, with some in the 18th century wearing them with up to 20 buttons and in patterns of spots, stripes and flora. But the version worn by Beau, in white or black is the one known to us today as part of a three-piece suit.



Men's Suit Details: Do's & Don't's

Tracy Xavier

Just my take on pocket squares, lapel pins, ties & tie bars

Fashion forward merlot suit with floral lapel pin and poof fold pocket square. Beautiful colors that compliment each other, formal slant with lapel detail, lends itself to a poof pocket square style.

Fashion forward merlot suit with floral lapel pin and poof fold pocket square. Beautiful colors that compliment each other, formal slant with lapel detail, lends itself to a poof pocket square style.

tie-clip

Tie Bar

Nice choice on the clean line, modern tie bar. Pocket square color choice is good but a straight edge would have been a more modern look.

silk pocket square

Tie & pocket square match up

The blue tones in the pocket square and tie are not from the same blue family, and the flouncy pocket square is a bit much and looks messy.

green suit.jpg

Two tone, suit & tie

Cool green suit with a same cool feel pop of color tie.

woven silk tie

Thin ties are more flattering than wide on shorter men

Color scheme good, tie choice bad. Thick woven ties that are wide do not work and the length is too short. It should touch your belt buckle.

tamarcus-brown-266128-unsplash.jpg

Casual

suits

Without a tie, just an open collar shirt and suit. Informal cotton straight edge pocket square works.

ruthson-zimmerman-622620-unsplash.jpg

Summer light suits

With light colored suits, a subtle pocket square is a good choice, having interesting details, draws in the eye.

pocket square

Don’t shy away from colors & prints

Especially if you are going with a solid color suit….go for it.

men's suits

Never, never, never wear a wrinkled tie.

not to mention the blue jamboree here is killing me.

Timeless Denim

Tracy Xavier

Upcycled denim. Vintage denim with one of a kind embellished designs. From toddler boho overalls to teen & women’s jackets and jeans. Custom order options available. Woman’s Renaissance & Toddlers 2 Teens on Etsy.

embroidered denim

Downton Abbey & Peaky Blinders - Shop the look

Tracy Xavier

If you are a fan of these shows and like the look, there is a creative way to bring some of these style elements into your every day look.

5 Ways to Channel Lauren Bacall’s Unforgettable, All-American Style

Tracy Xavier

Great article from Vogue

Certainly the crisp white shirt had one of its finest moments ever when Bacall wore it with a circle skirt in Key Largo. And who else but she could have given the beret an American accent, redefining it with a houndstooth suit in The Big Sleep? There was, alas, only one Lauren Bacall, but here are five ways to channel her unforgettable style.

dress-like-lauren-bacall-01.jpg
DESIGNING WOMAN

DESIGNING WOMAN

rs_634x1024-140812162758-634-lauren-bacall.ls.81214.jpg
rs_1024x759-140812164907-1024.lauren-bacall-2.cm.81214.jpg
Yousuf Karsh , master photographer of the 20th century. Lauren Bacall made here film debut at age 19 opposite her future husband, Humphrey Bogart, and her success continued in both film and on the stage, including two Tony Awards and a National Book Award for her autobiography.

Yousuf Karsh, master photographer of the 20th century. Lauren Bacall made here film debut at age 19 opposite her future husband, Humphrey Bogart, and her success continued in both film and on the stage, including two Tony Awards and a National Book Award for her autobiography.

Lauren Becall & the Power Suit

Lauren Becall & the Power Suit

Vintage Neckties

Tracy Xavier

I love fashion illustration, such an artistic way to view a bit of history. Some of our favorite names in the accessories industry are: Hickok, Anson, Swank and Wembley. If you are a fan of the retro narrow tie like Shaun Evans from Endeavour, hunt for the Wembley tie.  

A few examples of our special box packaging. Free with multiple item purchases!

Master of the look: Ester Quek "Women Wearing Suits"

Tracy Xavier

She has absolutely amazing style! What a great eye for color, texture & design. Whether it's a casual look with just a great jacket & pants with a pocket square or full hot professional styling with tie bar, necktie & lapel pin......This ladies is how it is done. BOSS STYLE

Ester Quek

South China Morning Post: Fashion & Beauty

Meet Esther Quek, Dubai’s most stylish girl-about-town – who is actually from Singapore

With her bleached blond pixie cut and bold style sense, fashion maven Esther Quek – the editor of CitizenK Arabia – is shaking up the style scene in Dubai and beyond, but still dreams of eating wanton mee in her home country.

Much like the identity of the quarterly magazine she edits, Quek’s style is contrarian, assured and unshrinking. With her sharply tailored suits, fearless styling and gravity-defying platinum locks, she’s a paparazzi’s dream and an endless source of inspiration to her legion of Instagram followers.

A fearless lady, Esther Quek is the distinguished group fashion and beauty director of luxury publications in the Middle East, namely The RakeRevolution and contributes frequently to Condé Nast Traveller. Hailing from Singapore, this veteran stylist and journalist has immersed herself in fashion and publishing for nearly a decade. Esther is a regular on the international fashion circuit, and has been heralded as one of the influential style icons working in fashion today. Her sense of style and undeniable charm has seen her grace the pages of many fashion titles including Vogue and Style.com.   Her illustrious career has flourished as she has continually proven herself to be an integral part in shaping fashion and the images of her global followers. As well as a style expert in the realms of fashion, beauty and lifestyle, Esther is respected for her creative work and comprehensive knowledge of the luxury world. After taking the bold step to move to Dubai, she makes her exceptional taste and expertise accessible to her growing audience. When she's not in the front row at fashion shows, Esther likes to travel to beach resorts, hunt for vintage dresses and watches, or find tailors who can create a perfect suit.

Ester Quek

Legal attire: the confidence of the suit

Tracy Xavier

While researching fashion in the professional world of attorneys, I ran across this article that really expressed our views on the subject. Inside the wardrobe of legal drama Suits

Suits1.jpg

Jolie sources much of the cast’s wardrobe from vintage and department stores in Toronto, where Suits is filmed, and makes trips to New York and Los Angeles, visiting consignment stores for one-off pieces and details like ties, cufflinks, collars or shoes that make the characters feel invested, she says. “It’s harder and harder to find really great pieces but I scour those stores all the time to see what’s different, to see what I’ve missed.”

 

Lawyer fashion evolves to reflect personality and tradition

For the women on Suits, Andreatta says she uses a lot of consignments. “The clothes are recycled, which is wonderful, and they’re insanely good quality. I find Dior, Chanel—and I use a lot of it—but it’s consignment.”

Andreatta suggests scouring vintage stores and online sites to add personality and to find designer pieces at a fraction of the cost. “Never be afraid of tailoring: Don’t be afraid to take it in and cut it up. If a jacket is too long, don’t be afraid to cut 5 inches out of it. Or you could cut a lapel down” to update a look and fit, she says.

Andreatta began her career styling attorneys more than 20 years ago, when she and a friend would take racks of clothes into law firms and talent agencies. She says times have changed—the palette has expanded, allowing lawyers more license to inject fun elements into their wardrobes.

“Women lawyers I meet want to wear the items from Suits,” Andreatta says. “You want to look beautiful but not provocative. Even seven years ago, women were dressing to fit in, to challenge men—and that was their way to compete with their colleagues. Now, it’s stronger and more to their benefit to just be women.”

Female attorneys aren’t the only ones who can find areas of self-expression through fashion. On Suits, Andreatta allows the personality of the male characters to shine through in a variety of ways. She adds romanticism with a decorative pocket square; others are dressed in vintage ties or bespoke, Savile Row-style suits.

Own the office, Boss Lady!

Tracy Xavier

We offer a great selection of one of a kind statement cufflinks for women as well as ties and pocket squares to complete the Boss Lady look. Below some inspiration for you and some special pieces selected from our three stores.

The above slideshow is provided as inspiration highlighting the varied beautiful styling of french cuffs with cufflinks adorning them. 

Styles to suit all personalities. From Czech glass Downton Abbey style to Mad Men mid century.

Styles to suit all personalities. From Czech glass Downton Abbey style to Mad Men mid century.

women's cufflinks

Vintage Purple floral mirror Czech iridescent glass women's cufflinks with brass chain hardware and Pearlized handblown glass back button

women's cufflinks

Sexy Mad Men inspired statement cufflinks for Women. Gold sea urchin frame with iridescent pistachio mint pearl center. 

french cuffs

Cluster iridescent clear crystal set of sparkle statement cufflinks with brilliant textured hardware. Old Hollywood Style. Office Glamour

b.jpg

Women's statement cufflinks, elegant vanilla cream pearl and gold lace. Very Betty Draper Mad Men. Modern gold setting. 

french cuffs

Hollywood Glam iridescent wired iridescent deep ocean blue crystal set of Statement cufflinks for women

French cuffs

Chunky smokey gray crystal and rhinestone cufflinks.  Magnetic convertible cufflinks to wear with any of your regular barrel cuff blouses or jackets. 

Shop Woman's Renaissance for the latest french cuff shirt listings!